How to read a size like "12' × 10'"

On retractable awnings the first number is the Width (the wall span); the second is the Projection (how far it reaches out when open). So 12' × 10' = 12 feet wide, projecting 10 feet from the wall.

On window & entrance awnings you'll also give a Drop (D) — the height of the vertical front face.

Take these four measurements

1. Width (wall span): the clear, unobstructed run of wall. Order a Width equal to or just under it.
2. Projection: how far out you want shade. Confirm nothing blocks the arms.
3. Mounting height: floor to mounting line. Higher is better; the awning pitches down as it projects.
4. Front-edge clearance: the lowest point (front bar fully out) should leave ~7' headroom.

1. Opening width: window/door frame at its widest (outside trim to outside trim).
2. Add side overhang: ~3–6″ per side so the awning extends past the opening = your awning Width.
3. Projection: for windows usually equals or slightly exceeds the drop; for doorways far enough to keep rain off the threshold (often 24–48″).
4. Drop / Height: the vertical front face — shades the top 1/3 to 1/2 of a window; high enough to walk under at a door.
5. Mounting height & headroom: note the mounting height and confirm clearance under the front bar.

Style-specific notes

• Traditional slope: give Width, Projection and Drop. The valance is part of the drop.
• Waterfall / box: projection and drop are similar; a square storefront look.
• Dome / quarter-round: drop and projection equal (the radius). Measure the opening width.
• Concave / elongated: specify Width, the projection at the bottom, and overall drop.

1. Window width: outside trim to outside trim, add ~4″ per side = awning Width.
2. Window height & coverage: choose a Bahama height that covers the glass for the sun/privacy you want.
3. Mounting above window: top hinge mounts a few inches above the head — confirm clear wall (no soffit interference).
4. Projection / prop-out: note any obstruction in front; the bottom edge stands off the wall.

1. Width: opening width plus side overhang (typically 3–6″).
2. Projection: enough to shade the opening and shed rain past it.
3. Drop: the vertical face height. S = closed ends, O = open ends — choose for looks; measuring is the same.
4. Mounting + headroom: record mounting height and confirm walk-under clearance at doors.

1. Width: the run along the wall to cover.
2. Projection: how far out from the wall the canopy reaches.
3. Mounting height: where it attaches to the wall, from the ground.
4. Clearance height (posted systems): finished height under the front beam — keep walkways code-compliant.
5. Post locations & surface: where posts land (concrete, pavers, soil); give total walkway length for post spacing.

1. Opening width: measure at the top, middle and bottom — record all three; we use the controlling dimension and account for track width.
2. Drop height: from the housing at the top down to the floor/sill. Measure both ends.
3. Housing & track mounting: note the surface for the top housing and the two side tracks — must be solid and plumb.
4. Power (motorized): note the nearest power source for the motor.

1. Coverage footprint: Width × Projection of the area to shade — sets the post-to-post dimensions.
2. Height: desired clearance under the beams; check against ledger height and door swings.
3. Attachment: free-standing vs. attached; if attached, note ledger wall height/material.
4. Post bases: existing concrete, pavers, deck, or soil needing footings.
5. Slope & drainage: which way water should run off.

1. Window height: the shutter height matches the window height for a correct look.
2. Window width: divide by 2 = ideal width of each shutter in the pair.
3. Arched tops: also measure height to the spring line and to the top of the arch.
4. Mounting space: confirm flat wall beside the window to land each shutter.